I know I shouldn't care about grades. But when you've been projecting a route for 2+ months, and not only do you send it, but it's the hardest route you've ever sent, then it's almost impossible not to shout it from the rooftops.
Sad to say, this 5.11b/c wasn't on real rock, but in my local gym. I like to call it my "blue route", which was aptly named since it uses beautiful, bright blue, textured holds. I classify this route as "big moves to big holds." I never knew this was my style, but why deny it?
Steve recently set a 5.11a at our gym. I on-sighted it, with beta, and immediately told him to downgrade it. Steve argued that I'm not giving myself enough credit. I do agree that there is a tendency to assume a route is sugarbagged simply because you can climb it and it's a harder grade than you can normally send. Nevertheless, after some debate, Steve agreed to downgrade his route, called "3,500 miles to Gaia", to a 5.10d. If it's really a 5.10d, then that's my hardest on-sight to date. I should be shouting that from the rooftops, but instead I still secretly think his route is only a 5.10b/c.
But why argue about such a subjective topic? I should just enjoy it, so that's what I'm going to do. :)
Sincerely,
Your 5.11 Climber
PS - On a side note, I'm really proud of the 5.10d route that Steve set, modeled after the famous route, "Gaia", in the Black Rocks area of England. His creative process began by mapping out the route in his climbing journal to determine how it could translate in a gym. A couple hours later it appeared on the wall. Here is a video of climber George Ullrich attempting to flash the real thing...
Sad to say, this 5.11b/c wasn't on real rock, but in my local gym. I like to call it my "blue route", which was aptly named since it uses beautiful, bright blue, textured holds. I classify this route as "big moves to big holds." I never knew this was my style, but why deny it?
Steve recently set a 5.11a at our gym. I on-sighted it, with beta, and immediately told him to downgrade it. Steve argued that I'm not giving myself enough credit. I do agree that there is a tendency to assume a route is sugarbagged simply because you can climb it and it's a harder grade than you can normally send. Nevertheless, after some debate, Steve agreed to downgrade his route, called "3,500 miles to Gaia", to a 5.10d. If it's really a 5.10d, then that's my hardest on-sight to date. I should be shouting that from the rooftops, but instead I still secretly think his route is only a 5.10b/c.
But why argue about such a subjective topic? I should just enjoy it, so that's what I'm going to do. :)
Sincerely,
Your 5.11 Climber
PS - On a side note, I'm really proud of the 5.10d route that Steve set, modeled after the famous route, "Gaia", in the Black Rocks area of England. His creative process began by mapping out the route in his climbing journal to determine how it could translate in a gym. A couple hours later it appeared on the wall. Here is a video of climber George Ullrich attempting to flash the real thing...
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