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Climb DTLA

10/9/2013

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In case you missed it, and if you are a rock climber in this city my only conclusion is that you've literally been living under a rock... or living in your car without internet access (another feasible option)... Anyway, in case you missed it, there will be two brand new climbing gyms in Downtown Los Angeles by the end of winter 2014.

It seems to be a neck-and-neck race for the opening, with LA.B, a bouldering-only gym, slightly in the lead. Both are scheduled to open in Winter, but I think that Stronghold will have a significantly larger challenge with the construction schedule for multiple reasons, but mainly because of the added amenities (lead and top rope) and because they started a couple weeks later than LA.B.  Additionally, Stronghold chose to set up shop in a historic building, specifically, an old steam power plant within the *now* LA Brewery Arts Complex.  A little birdie told me that they ran into some issues with permits, however it seems to be resolved now.

For me, the decision is going to be easy. I prefer sport climbing, so Stronghold is where I will spend my money. After the precursory visit to check out LA.B, it is unlikely I will spend much time there.  They had an open house yesterday, October 8th, and I heard pretty great things about the space. So, by all means, I could be proven wrong. It's been known to happen before.

So the big question on my mind is: can both gyms survive downtown? The even bigger question, can these two gyms survive in the land of Rockreation West LA and Costa Mesa, Sender One in Orange County, Boulderdash in Thousand Oaks, Hangar 18, and more?  The gym that faces the largest threat is undoubtedly Rockreation's West LA location, as many climbers are currently commuting from the valley and downtown.  I can't imagine that those commuters will continue to pledge their loyalty to Rockreation when newer and, in the situation with Stronghold, TALLER gyms are closer proximity.  

My climbing partner, Mollie, and I visited Sender One a few weeks ago. It was really, really fun. What makes a climbing gym more fun than another? Well, if you are new to climbing, potentially nothing. But for those of us who spend time in the same gym, week after week, year after year... just a simple change of terrain makes a big difference. New and textured holds make a big difference. Taller walls, whether you are a sport climber or boulderer, make a big difference. It's just fun to get out of the comforts of your regular gym.

More information on both gyms can be found online:
LA.B - https://www.facebook.com/laboulders
Stronghold - https://www.facebook.com/StrongholdClimbing (AND) http://www.strongholdclimb.com

See below for a preview of what we can expect from both gyms (click on any image to enlarge). I truly can't wait!

LA.B

Stronghold

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Home Climbing Wall: A Wish List

8/28/2013

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I'm having one of those wishful/wanting moments. Sometimes I just want STUFF.  In addition to wanting a nice house with a large yard (something rare in a city like Los Angeles), I think it would be cool to have a home climbing gym.  In reality, this would probably never happen.  Can you imagine the chalk EVERYWHERE? No thanks. Perhaps my home climbing gym would be better suited as an outdoor home climbing wall.  Maybe leading up to treehouse for the kids or as a feature in the yard (both shown below)? I don't know. Like I said, it's just wishful thinking.  But I started Googling "home climbing wall" and I found some really cool pictures and a couple videos.  Enjoy!
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Home Wall Building Resources (Because I want you to be inspired but safe!):

The Metolius Guide to Building a Home Bouldering Wall
Chockstone Instructions to Building a Home Climbing Wall
WikiHow (please don't solely rely on this source!)
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Buildering 101

3/7/2012

1 Comment

 
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I'm not sure about this one, but it's an incredible picture.
Oh, you heard me right.  I said bUIldering.  According to Wikipedia, the most reliable Internet source around, buildering is the act of climbing on the outside of buildings and other artificial structures.  The word "buildering" is a portmanteau, combining the word "building" with the climbing term "bouldering".  On a side note, I just learned a new word: portmanteau.  A portmanteau is a combination of two (or more) words or morphemes into one new word. Morpheme...? Christ, this could go on all day.  And trust me, you don't even want to see the definition of morpheme.

What you should take away from my vocab tangent is that buildering is the act of bouldering on buildings and walls.  The notion of buildering has been teetering at the edge of my thoughts ever since I moved into my new apartment.  There is a brick wall right beside the gated entrance that has half-inch deep slots between each brick, where the mortar resides.  These virgin brick ledges, ripe with texture, are perfect single-pad crimps and are uniformly dispersed vertically and horizontally.  The catch is that the wall is only about 6 feet high and a top-out would require an uncomfortable encounter with barbed wire.

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Sometimes you have to fly in the face of authority...
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Can we agree that neither of these guys should have their shirts off? It better be REALLY hot outside. Also, this project looks really fun.
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Oh yes, arch-lovers, there are buildering opportunities out there for you too.
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V0 FA by Monica Arone
Let's talk for a moment about my little "buildering" escapade. Here I am, climbing the gate to the parking lot of my old apartment complex.

I'm not sure if climbing gates and tall fences count as buildering, but I included this picture for the sake of feeling included in the buildering community, if there is such a thing.  Please note that I'm not trying to be "cool" or "dangerous", I simply forgot my keys.  I suppose that makes the picture a lot less interesting, but it is what it is.

I fully intend, from this day forward, to be much more aware of buildering opportunities in my every day routine. 

Finally, there is the very odd/incredible climbing wall that was built on the arch dam Luzzone in Switzerland (as seen below).  It's definitely not "real" rock climbing, it's not indoor climbing, and it's not quite buildering either.  What is it, other than really fucking awesome?

I'm not sure if there is an answer to the question of it's identity, but I can tell you that the vertical distance is about 165 meters long, made up of 650 plastic holds, and the first holds start a few meters off the ground to deter casual visitors from climbing on them.  Like I said, really fucking awesome.

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